Situated in the Thaba Putsoa (‘Blue Mountains’) about 115km southeast of Maseru, Semonkong (‘Place of Smoke’) is a small highland town whose name alludes to the spectacular cloud of spray thrown up by the nearby Maletsunyane Waterfall when it’s in full flow.
Possibly the single best-known natural feature in Lesotho, Maletsunyane is one of Africa’s tallest single-drop waterfalls, plummeting a full 192 metres over a sheer basaltic ledge into a narrow gorge hemmed in by steep green slopes and sandstone cliffs. In addition to throwing up a dramatic misty plume during the height of the rainy season, the plunging water creates a loud reverberation claimed by local legend to be the wailing cry of the souls of those who have drowned there.
Tourist activity around Thaba Putsoa centres on Semonkong Lodge, which boasts an attractive rural location on the leafy banks of the Maletsunyane River within easy walking distance of the main viewpoint over the waterfall. The surrounding area offers some great hiking and pony trekking opportunities, most notably the steep footpath that leads to the base of the gorge below the falls.
Semonkong Lodge operates the world’s longest commercial single-drop abseil, a thrilling 204-metre descent alongside Maletsunyane Falls, offering sensational views through the spray over the gorge below. Though not an activity for the faint of heart, no experience is required as advance training is given to all abseilers on a smaller cliff close to the lodge.
More sedately, the Maletsunyane River also offers some superb fly-fishing opportunities. The stretch above the falls was stocked with brown trout in the 1950s and specimens weighing 5kg are regularly snagged. Below the waterfall, the stretch of river above its confluence with the Senqu (Orange) also contains brown trout along with trophy-sized rainbow trout and yellow fish.
Travel Tips
Sleeping: Semonkong Lodge offers comfortable en-suite rooms and affordable dormitory accommodation.
Eating: A good restaurant and bar is attached to Semonkong Lodge.
Access: Semonkong lies about 115km from Maseru along the A3. The drive takes two hours and passes through Roma. It is another 200km from Semonkong to Sehlabathebe National Park; only the first half of the route (as far as Qacha’s Nek) is surfaced, and the drive usually takes up to five hours. Regular public transport runs between Maseru and Semonkong.
Preparations: Prospective abseilers should allow time to do an obligatory free practice descent on a 25m high cliff the day before the main event.